Old Town Crier, June 2007 Issue
Exploring Virginia Wines by Doug Fabbioli

What’s up with the winemaker? It is always nice to forget about the cellar for a moment after bottling. Well, that did not last long. Production increases for the 2007 harvest mean that I need to get my tanks and barrels ordered this week or they will arrive too late for harvest. Those European manufacturers want orders and deposits early to plan their production. I would much prefer to go work in the vineyard than calculate, make phone calls and write checks.

Vineyard Update: The new green shoots are growing quick and strong. We removed extra shoots that would have caused crowding later. This reduces the crop but balances the vine and increases the quality. We also start tucking the 18 inch shoots between the wires so they will have the support later when the fruit is big and the shoot is 48 inches. The ground is pretty dry so we will start hand watering the replacement vines we planted this spring. More work but we need to protect that investment.

I have tried to do some higher thinking lately. Trying to define the business and its greater mission has me focusing on 3 “E”s: education, environment and economics. The education aspect focuses on interns, staff training, wine education programs and encouraging education on all levels to make us all a little better. Environment encompasses the efforts I make to use sustainable agriculture practices, investing in our geothermal climate control system and generally follow good practices that will help us find the balance between Earth and man. The economics angle can be harder to explain. The business needs to make a profit and grow, but the larger picture of the wine industry and the local green economy is what I feel will help keep this land, western Loudoun County, in a healthy balance between houses and open space. Healthy industries can affect decisions. People who work on profitable farms will work to protect the land. What does all this have to do with wine? Balance the grapes on the vine, balance the wine in the glass, balance the land where we live and balance the life that we lead. Wow, that’s deep!

Wine Wholesaling: The new Virginia law regarding self-distribution means that the wineries can start bringing wines to the wine shops and restaurants directly again without using a distributor. Even though self-distribution was a major part of my business plan 2 years ago, after working with a small, start up distributor, I do not think I will go back. I need to focus on what I do best and that is growing grapes and making wine. I am not the best driver, (my DMV record will confirm that), and I am terrible with paperwork. Why do I want to be a salesman too? I know I am one of the lucky ones to have a good relationship with my distributor. I have heard many horror stories. I am very glad to have regained the choice of either doing it myself or hiring someone.

Next month’s topics will include wine festivals from the winemaker’s point of view along with more thoughts on the three "E"s. Thanks for trying Virginia again.